A kilowatt/hour is a unit of electricity. It is the multiple of the amount of power (in watts) that you use, multiplied by the time that you use it. For instance, if you have a heater rated at 1000 watts (1 kilowatt) and you have that heater switched on for one hour then you would have used one kilowatt/hour. Likewise a 100 watt (.1 kilowatt) lamp switched on for 10 hours would also be a kilowatt/hour.

What is a tariff?

A tariff is a levy or cost that is imposed by the electricity distributor (Energex, Ergon Energy) for the use of electricity. The actual cost of the electricity is made up of the number of kilowatt/hours that you use multiplied by the tariff, for example, if you use 100 kilowatt/hours of electricity and it costs you $0.20c per kilowatt/hour then your electricity account will be $20.

Why should I connect my hot water or pool to Tariff 33?

Cost. Tariff 33 is 30% cheaper than Tariff 11. It also helps the environment. Changing appliances to Tariff 33 decreases the number of generators required for electricity, thereby decreasing the amount of greenhouse gases being released into the environment.

What is Tariff 11 (T11)?

Tariff 11 is a domestic tariff for general light and power. Any domestic electrical appliance can be connected to T11. However, savings can be made by connecting some items to other tariffs. The electricity coming from a power point will be charged at T11 rates.

What is Tariff 31 (T31)?

Tariff 31 is known as the ‘Super Economy’ tariff or ‘Night Rate Off Peak’ tariff and is charged at a lower rate than either T11 or T33. T31 is normally connected to larger hot water systems, although it can be used for other purposes. Appliances connected to T31 have to be hard wired (they are not connected via a plug and socket). T31 is only available for eight hours per night normally between 10pm and 6am, therefore you must have a large hot water system to ensure that your hot water does not run out during the day. Other items that can be placed on T31 are water beds and heat banks. Solar hot water booster elements can be placed on T31. However, T33 is better for this purpose. T31 is cheaper than T11.

What is Tariff 33 (T33)?

Tariff 33 is known as the ‘Economy’ tariff or ‘Off Peak’ tariff. T33 is cheaper than T11, but more expensive than T31. The advantage of T33 is that the power to this tariff is normally available for 18 hours per day. This makes it an ideal tariff for smaller hot water systems (180 litres or more), pool pumps, clothes driers, dishwashers, etc. You have to bear in mind, when deciding to use this tariff, that the power is normally off between 5pm and 9pm and again at breakfast time in the morning, so it is pointless connecting any appliance that has to be used at these times. T33 is approximately 30% cheaper than T11. If T33 is connected to your pool motor then you will have to program your pool timer to operate the pool filter at other times of the day.

What does each Tariff cost?

Can I connect my pool to Tariff 33?

Yes; but you have to ensure that the pool timer will keep correct time when the tariff is turned off. This can be done a couple of ways depending on how your home was wired originally. If your pool is on its own circuit and you do not need Tariff 11 at the pool equipment (for spa blowers, lights, etc [remember the power will be off between 5pm and 9pm]), you can place a timer in the main switch board. In this way the electrician can power the clock mechanism from T11, which is on all of the time, and use the existing cable to feed the T33 to the pool pump. In this way the clock will operate all the time. The downside with this method is that you lose the availability of T11 at the pump equipment (there will be no power points) and spa blowers, lights, etc will have to be hard wired to the T33 and will not work between 5pm and 9pm. Another minor aggravation is that the time clock will be in the main switchboard, which make it a little more difficult to place the timer on manual when backwashing the pool, etc.

Another way to achieve the same outcome is to install a time clock with a battery reserve. The battery will keep the time correct while T33 is off. The only advantage with this option is that the timer can remain at the pool equipment. The wire coming from the house will still carry T33 and as such will be off between 5pm and 9pm.

The third way and by far the best (but normally the most expensive) is to run a new wire from the main switchboard to the pool equipment to carry the T33. This allows the timer to be located with the pool equipment and allows you to have T11 available for the spa blower when you get home from work at 6pm.

If I have my pool connected to Tariff 33, what is the best time to run my pool pump?

This will depend on a number of factors such as the proximity of the pool equipment to neighbours, etc. All you have to remember is not to program your pool to run between 5pm and 9 pm and 7am to 9am, which are the times that T33 is normally turned off.

Can I unplug my pool motor from the T33 and plug it into a T11 power point while T33 is switched off?

No. Tariff 33 equipment must be hard wired. There is no plug or socket. An electrician is required to disconnect the equipment should it fail.

What is the advantage of connecting your pool to Tariff 33?

The cost. Tariff 33 is approximately 30% cheaper than the normal Tariff 11.

Can I connect my pool to Tariff 31?

Yes, but T31 is only switched on for eight hours per day, normally between the hours of 10pm and 6am. Your neighbours may not appreciate the pool equipment running at these times. Additionally, eight hours of filter operation may be insufficient during the summer months.

How much will a tariff conversion cost?

This will depend on the extent of the works. A standard Tariff 33 conversion to an appropriately sized hot water service will cost approximately $112, but we will be happy to give you a quotation before commencing work.

How does the tariff get switched on and off?

A device called a load control Relay is installed by Energex into your main switchboard This device is controlled by messages sent down the electricity lines. A message is sent to switch the relay on and another message is sent to switch the relay off. For those technically minded types among us, a harmonic frequency of 50 Hertz is superimposed on the line. The relay changes state according to the frequency. This will sometimes cause a fluctuation in dimmed lights at the time the frequency is being injected into the network.

My low-voltage light cycles on and off. Is this a problem?

Low-voltage lights or ‘dichroic lights’ are supplied from a step-down transformer, which changes the voltage from 240 volts to 12 volts. This transformer has a safety switch built into it that switches the transformer off if it overheats. If your low-voltage light is cycling on and off, you can check to see if the transformer is covered with insulation (this will require your climbing into the roof. The transformer will be located, in most instances, adjacent to the light fitting). If the transformer is clear of insulation then you should contact ITELEC to have the transformer replaced.

My hot water is cold. What should I do?

First check the circuit breaker to ensure that it is not tripped. If so, try to reset it. If the circuit breaker trips immediately or soon after then contact ITELEC and arrange a service call.

My lights are on but I have no power at the power points. What is the problem?

The most likely problem is that your safety switch has tripped. To check if this is the problem you need to identify your safety switch in the switchboard. Your safety switch will have a ‘test’ button on the front of it. Reset the safety switch. If it trips again immediately then follow these steps:

1. Unplug and remove from the power point (simply switching off the power point will not work) the last electrical appliance that you were using and try to reset the safety switch. If this resolves the problem then have the appliance in question checked by ITELEC.

2. If step 1 does not fix the problem then unplug ALL appliances in the house from their power points (simply switching off the power point will not work). Ensure that you also unplug the refrigerator, dishwasher, pool equipment (don’t worry about hard wired items) and if you live on acreage, the grey water pump and mains pressure water pump if applicable. Try to reset the safety switch again. If step 2 has resolved your problem then plug in a radio and turn it up so that you can hear it throughout the house. Plug the appliances in one by one. The faulty appliance will trip the safety switch and the radio will go silent. Unplug that item and have it repaired by ITELEC. Reset your safety switch, you have found the fault.

3. If step 2 does not rectify the problem then check to ensure that ALL appliances are unplugged (simply switching off the power point will not work) and try step 2 again. If you cannot find the fault then call ITELEC and request an urgent service call.
   
   

What is a surge diverter and how does it work?

A surge diverter is a piece of equipment that diverts excess voltages (caused by spikes in the electrical supply) to earth, thus protecting sensitive electrical and electronic equipment. The surge diverter is normally installed in the main switchboard, although you can have surge diverter power points that protect items plugged into that point and if connected to do so, then the power points downstream of it as well. The surge diverter ‘shunts’ voltages over 260 volts AC to ground, stopping most power spikes from causing any damage. A surge diverter may not protect your equipment from a direct lightning strike on your home. The chances of your home being stuck by lightning are not high luckily!

Is a circuit breaker and a safety switch the same thing?

No. A circuit breaker is designed to limit the flow of electricity through a given circuit in your home, thus reducing the possibility of a fire due to overloaded circuits. A safety switch is designed to save lives by interrupting the flow of electricity quickly.

My lights flicker continually. Is this dangerous?

Yes. A flickering light is normally an indication of a loose connection in the fitting or light switch. Loose connections can overheat and cause a fire. Have the problem checked by ITELEC as soon as possible.

My ‘power’ circuit breaker trips continually in winter. What should I do?

If any circuit breaker trips, it is a sign that the circuit is overloaded. This usually happens more often in winter as heaters are plugged into power points. Try plugging your heater into another power point preferably on the other side of the house (adjacent power points are normally connected to the same circuit). If this does not fix the problem them you may need to have an additional circuit installed. Give ITELEC a call for a quotation to carry out this work.

My light switch ‘zaps’ when I turn it on. Is this dangerous?

Arching light switches can be caused by a number of problems. Have ITELEC check the problem and rectify it if necessary.

My light switch feels hot to touch. Is this dangerous?

Yes. Have it checked as soon as possible by ITELEC.

My power point feels hot to touch. Is this dangerous?

If you have anything plugged into the power point then disconnect it straight away. If the power point is still hot to touch then have it checked as soon as possible by ITELEC.

Do I have to have a safety switch?

All homes built since 1991 are required to have a safety switch fitted. Homes built before 1991 are not required to have a safety switch unless the home is sold. In this case the purchaser must install a safety switch within three months of settlement. Electrical contractors are prohibited from carrying out any electrical work in this instance unless the work includes the installation of a safety switch. Remember, safety switches save lives AND it may be yours!

What are the laws in regards to safety switches?

It is a requirement since 1 September 2002 that when any residential/property transfer is carried out in Queensland at least one safety switch be installed on the power circuit by the buyer within three months of possession if no safety switches are already installed.

Does the legislation require the seller of a domestic residential property to do anything?

The seller needs to establish if a safety switch is installed for the general-purpose socket outlets (power points) prior to sale. Based on this information, the seller will need to make a declaration on both the standard sales contract and Form 24 Property Transfer. Real estate agents and solicitors are aware of these requirements.

I'm selling my home - how do I check if a safety switch is installed?

The safety switch will be located in the main switchboard and can be distinguished from a fuse or circuit breaker by looking for a test button. Safety switches will have a test button for periodic testing of the safety switch mechanism. Devices that may look similar to safety switches are circuit breakers, which do not have a test button.

What is the difference between a safety switch and a circuit breaker?

A safety switch is for protection of life and a circuit breaker is used to prevent overloading of circuits. Overloaded circuits are a fire hazard.

How much will it cost to install a safety switch?

The average cost to install a single safety switch is around $200, but this is dependent on age of premises and type of switchboard. Contact ITELEC for a free quotation.

How do I get a safety switch installed?

Contact ITELEC to arrange an installation.

Is a rebate being offered if I install a safety switch?

From time to time the Queensland Government will offer a rebate for the installation of a safety switch. As at the 1^st of August 2007 no such rebate is being offered.

How many safety switches do I need to get installed?

The legislation requires that all general-purpose socket outlets (power points) be protected by a safety switch. This could be one or more safety switches depending on your specific requirements. Give ITELEC a call for a free quotation.

I have a safety switch installed on one general-purpose socket outlet (power point). Does this satisfy the requirements of the new legislation?

No. The new legislation requires a safety switch to be installed to protect all general-purpose socket outlets (power points) in the premises.

Does the legislation require that I install a safety switch on the lights?

No. The legislation does not require this, but the installation of safety switches on light circuits will provide an increased level of safety if you so require it. Give ITELEC a call for a free quotation.

Do I have to have a safety switch on the socket outlet (power point) used for my fridge?

No. Your fridge is a specific purpose socket-outlet (power point) and is not required to be fitted with a safety switch under the legislation. Call ITELEC for further information.